A Raspberry Pi Zero based camera controller to control a point-and-shoot camera, mirrorless or DSLR for timelapses.
The camera controller can turn the camera on, power the Raspberry Pi Zero which in turn takes a picture and asks the controller to turn itself and the camera off again. This way the battery is preserved as much as possible and via PTP multiple exposures are easy.
Eagle files on github.
Soldering is possible by hand if you’ve got basic soldering skills. Smallest part is 1206 and to solder the legs of the microcontroller a good youtube tutorial is all one needs.
PCBs can be ordered from OSHpark, 15$ for 3.
|1||Raspberry Pi Zero||~10,00 €|
|2||18650 Li-Ion Cell||~5,00 €|
|1||18650 2S1P Holder|
|1||Microcontroller atmega 32U4||mouser||3,76 €|
|1||Buck Converter MP2307||mouser||3,41 €|
|2||P-Channel Mosfet FDD4141||mouser||1,12 €|
|4||N-Channel Mosfet BSS138||mouser||0,30 €|
|1||Crystal 16MHz||mouser||0,77 €|
|1||Optocoupler ILD213T||mouser||1,15 €|
|1||SMD button||watterott||0,99 €|
|1||SPDT switch||reichelt||0,98 €|
|1||USB connector||mouser||0,47 €|
|1||micro audio jack||reichelt||0,92 €|
|2||Molex NanoFit pre crimped cables||mouser||2,03 €|
|2||Molex NanoFit receptable||mouser||0,84 €|
|X||1206 10k / 1%|
|X||1206 44k / 1%|
|X||1206-wide PTC 500mV|
|X||1206 3.9nF (3900pF)|
|X||1210 10uF / 25V|
|X||1210 22uF / 6.3V|
Two parts are relatively hard to acquire and can not be purchased from mouser. The 2.5mm audio jack (Lumberg 1501-05) is sold at reichelt and conrad in Germany, the SMD button is sold by sparkfun and some resellers (e.g. watterott in Germany).
The connectors for power in and power out are supposed to be (the quite expensive) Molex NanoFit but a straight or angled standard 2.54mm header can be used too.
There are two case versions, one standalone and one including the Raspberry Pi Zero.
Print with 0.2mm layers and no brim on a standard FDM printer. Materials:
|10g||filament PLA or PETG|
|3||8x1mm magnet + glue (optional)|
Use a 2.5mm drill to remove excess material in the screw holes and the spacer.
Fasten the screws.
There is no step three1.
Flash the microcontroller with the Arduino Leonardo Bootloader, upload the firmware via the Arduino IDE and you’re set. To flash the bootloader a programmer or another Arduino is required. (This is left as an exercise to the reader).
Link to Github
Caveat: buy a normal Pi Zero, not a W. UART is slightly different on the W and the bluetooth output needs to be redirected to have access to the main UART.
A note on camera compatibility: on the pi runs gphoto2. Every camera that can be controlled by gphoto2, can be triggered by the pi2.
Maybe some day...